![]() so you probably don't need parallax adjustment. Most experienced shooters are going to be working close to the centre of the eye box most of the time. Consequently it's important to have the scope mounted in the optimum position. It's easy enough to calculate parallax error but it is a potential error - only maximised when your eye is right at the extreme of the eye box. ![]() Then keeping your head in the ideal position is compromised. I think the main cause of parallax error for experienced shooters is when changing position and changing hold, as you might be doing when hunting. So most competent shooters won't have significant parallax error when shooting from a comfortable position. If your eye position is on the scopes optical axis this consistency continues if you change range. If you are shooting at a fixed range (albeit different from your zero parallax range) and you head position is consistent your POA and POI will be consistent. The parallax error only come into play when you change your eye position. Its like I've gone back 10 years and I'm once again thinking parallax correction causes as many issues as it cures.Īs I shot these in a side wind, this will need to be zeroed in no wind before it sees any use in the field What I'll also say, is that head position is near perfect with this HFT500, it was far easier to use the eye box on this scope, than the 2-7 airmax. I'm thinking this scope stays on and though I do "need" a half mil dot ret, I don't need parallax adjustment. The first one, I took 2 bad shots, as I had had to change my position, but when settled, quickly shot the black dot almost centre.Īfter that, my normal routine of taking all the spinners beyond zero, was carried out, as well as with any other scope I've ever used. I then moved position to shoot a couple of 1/2" shoot n see black dots. About 10mm high and left, and quickly brought in, despite a fair side wind. I started at the club, on a large piece of card, as the scope was zeroed for another rifle, but after a few shots, and a couple of tickles of the turrets, I was near enough, so moved onto a 50mm shoot n see. At my zero distance, its more than clear enough, and beyond, its superb. It has a very useful half mildot ret and crystal clear optics, so I stuck it on last night.Īt 25 yards, there's enough definition to see pellet strikes, though closer than that, the focus gets more blurred. I can remember when I started shooting with the little airmax, that the adjustable AO, did seem to cause me more problems, than it solved and its taken me a lot of years to find a suitable setting for the parallax, where I can leave it fixed.īut I think it still makes it problematical to a degree, because before or after the distance where I have it set, parallax does come into play, but I sort of learned to live with it, and the Airmax 2-7 has become my go to scope.Īnyway, I wanted to take my (currently unscoped) HFT500 to the club this morning and the only glass I had spare, was a 3-9x40 parallax corrected at 100 yds. The lack of availability of the Panorama, meant the airmax was the next best option. Then I dipped in with the airmax 2-7x32 AO, and thats where things seem to change for me.īefore that, my favourite scope was the Panorama 2-7x32, because of the ret. Up to about 10 years ago, I d never had a scope with parallax adjustment, and I'd never had a problem. ![]() I've had a think about this and I think its simply the scopes that are on the market, and what we've become used to / conditioned to think we must have. If you'd asked me yesterday, I d have said yes Now this is really particular to my needs, with the majority of my shots being 20 yards +
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